Stonehenge

 

WARNING: DO NOT GO TO THIS ATTRACTION AS A SOLO TRAVELLER IF YOU ARE BRINGING A DOG.

Stop two on Jamie's Birthday Roadtrip was Stonehenge. We knew from the website that we wouldn't be able to go in the main field with the stones with the dog because of livestock, that was fine. Other sites indicated that we were allowed in surrounding fields with an equal view, when we checked in the English Heritage chappy even said head to the guide near the stones for more information as you'll be able to go with the dog nearby, perfect. 

What actually happened is we walked the 1.3 miles up to the field with the stones, in the rain as dogs are not allowed on the bus, only to be told by the English Heritage guide that we should have been told at the ticket desk we are not allowed anywhere near with our dog. The option is to take it in turns and one of us wait in the National Trust field by the bus stop with the dog while the other walks the rest of the way to Stonehenge. You couldn't even see Stonehenge from the point we were stopped, it was at least another 10 minute walk to get over to the Stonehenge viewpoint. So in the end Lauren stayed with the dog as the walk did a bit of a number on her still healing ankle, and Jamie walked around the stone circle taking photos and videos for her to view later on.


Lauren: Dont get me wrong, I could see Stonehenge from the National Trust field about half a mile into our walk. I took a photo and we were under the impression that as we got closer we'd be able to see the stones in their glory from at least the bottom of that field. Yet somehow in the crafty glean of making money, the recommended path from the EH visitor centre is high-ground and then a flat so that when you get close you have to go past the guarded area and walk down in order to view Stonehenge itself. So basically if you'd come in through the National Trust trail hoping for a glimpse you wont get one unless you've paid the entry fee to enter the specific field. 


Interestingly, upon research, the Crown own Stonehenge and English Heritage only manage it. Considering this you would have thought that a specifically dog friendly route would have been made as the Monarchs are dog people much like us. Of course the welfare of livestock is paramount, but an alternative route could have been made clear. The funnier aspect is we had to drive through Wilshire on the way back from Glastonbury to get back to Ashford, and we drove past Stonehenge and could see it clearer from the Aroad than we could from the site. 

Stonehenge is of course a UNESCO site and a tourist spot that is a British icon. Unlike its nearby cousin Woodhenge, there is evidence that this site was a burial ground due to the bone fragments discovered. These have been dated back to when the site was originally dug for construction and fragments continue to be dated from 500 years after this meaning that this continued as a burial site for at least 500 years.


Known as the 'domain of the dead', Stonehenge continued to be home to those since departed following the 'cremation phase'. The site continued to evolve and go through 'phases' for at least 1500 years, but the common theme seems to be death. In 1920 cremated bone fragments from at least 63 people were exhumed and reburied in 'Aubrey hole 7' due to lack of importance to the archaeological dig at the time. There they remained until 2013 only to be rediscovered and found to have been equally of both genders and even included some children. Tests conducted in 2018 found that these remains belonged to people who lived in the site where the Bluestones were sourced (Wales), and that they were buried at the site around the same time as construction. It was also found that they had not lived in Wilshire very long before death.

As it happens, studies by Professor Parker Pearson and his team show that some of the stones used in Stonehenge came from Waun Mewn in Wales. It has been proven that one stone in particular was indeed used at both sites. This leads to speculation that migration took place or that simply the stones were harvested from different places in order to build the first phase of Stonehenge.

During it's second phase, the monument being that of a funerary nature was solidified due to the cremation remains being discovered and dated 200 years after the monuments conception. Findings dated during this time have been believed to mean that the Henge operated as an enclosed cremation cemetery during this period.

During the Henge's third phase construction continued, replacing what was thought to be timber posts for more stone. Linking in to our earlier post of Woodhenge and how it was believed that both Henges were made at a similar time, is it not an idea that perhaps Woodhenge was due to also be converted to stone but much like modern infrastructure, was abandoned? There is evidence both were made of timber and stone. Parker Pearson also surmised an idea similar to that considered during our Woodhenge post- that the wooden circle at Durrington Walls was meant for the living (due to the animal teeth found at the site) and was where the builders made their settlement. With this in mind, it was thought that again Stonehenge was meant for spirits and that the River Avon separating the two symbolised and completed the journey between the land of the living and the dead. 

The 3rd phase was split into 5 sections of construction over the years it took to construct pretty much what we see today. Minor tweaks were added following these stages but more so evidence of later settlements and how the world has moved on since the original construction. Roman coins and Medieval artefacts have been found here as well as a beheaded Saxon man excavated in 1923. Scholars from the Middle Ages were aware of Stonehenge and studied it and since then the area has been a point of interest.


Much like those who constructed the Pyramids in Egypt, Stonehenge was built by a culture which did not produce any written documents regarding the why or more importantly the how Stonehenge came to be. Due to this, we dont know how they had managed to place the stones as looking at this now it does not look like it could have only been done by human intervention. As for the why, we can only guess but many have come forward to stake claims that Stonehenge was made for astronomical uses or religious purposes. Even Geoffrey of Monmouth (he who chronicled the Legends of King Arthur) praised the site and the stones for curative properties indicating that perhaps it was a place of healing instead of worship. He was also the first to push the notion that this was a funerary monument. 

Having Geoffrey of Monmouth be connected in some way to the first leg of our roadtrip is an interesting discovery, mainly for the fact that when planning this trip we decided to turn it into a quest to discover King Arthur and try and find out if he was of myth or flesh and blood. This was due to Lauren's expertise in the subject and her ongoing education into it has inspired Jamie to want to know more too. The connection continues as in 'The History of the Kings of Britain', Geoffrey writes of Stonehenge's legendary conception. This involves none other but Merlin, who brought the healing stones from Ireland. These stones were originally brought from Africa to Ireland by Giants and erected as 'The Giant's Ring'. Aurelius Ambrosius sent Merlin and Uther Pendragon to recover these stones on the advice of Merlin as he wished to build a monument to honour the British Celtic nobles slain by the Saxons at Salisbury. Merlin and Uther set off to recover the stones, won a battle with the Irish and brought them to Salisbury where they were erected in the same position as they had been in Ireland. 

While widely regarded as fiction, Prof Parker Pearson confirms that there may have been a small amount of truth within this legend as the stones were sourced from Waun Mawn which is the Irish sea facing side of Wales.

A different legend details the Saxon King Hengist inviting British Celtic nobles to the site for a feast and ordering a massacre killing 420 of them. He then built Stonehenge to show his remorse. 

In more recent times, the site holds religious significance to Druids, Pagans, Witches, and other earth based or old religions. These religions or practices celebrate the Solstices and Equinoxes at the site welcoming in the Earth's changes and completing their rites and rituals.

There is honestly loads of information about Stonehenge out there, it's a shame that getting to know about the site is easier than actually getting to it! If you want to know more then surf the interweb my friend as there are thousands of theories, pages, and facts out there to enjoy. Our research on this site certainly isnt over, and we will revisit (without Yogi) as it isnt too far from home either. Now that we know this site is connected to the Arthurian Legend it is a hot sight of interest for us and needs to be further investigated!

In terms of our actual visit, by the time we had walked the trek it was about 1.30-2pm and still raining but muggy. There was a cloudy aura around the site from a distance but Jamie didn't get any sort of unusual vibe like we usually do when he was close to the stones themselves. Is it haunted considering it's a burial site? Couldn't tell you as it was too crowded to single out anything, but the cloudy aura from afar is certainly interesting and not something we see often. Some may titter and say it's just fog, but it was more than that, and there is a loneliness that accompanies the site. It's peaceful for sure (aside from the hundreds of tourists), but there looks to be a shroud around the outer stones, perhaps a veil to connect to the Otherworld? Does this prove the spiritual side of the sites purpose? We won't ever know for sure!

The giftshop was good, it was structured nicely with different areas relating to different merch to make everything clear. Food one end, clothing the next, trinkets and such by the entrance. Clever system, there was even a pressed penny machine! So in Lauren's mind, this made up this sort of made up for the fact she didn't get to see the site up close. At least she had a penny to add to her collection.

Haunted: Probably, although yet to be confirmed by this blog.
Worth the visit: 7/10
Giftshop: 7/10
Ghost count: 0
Dog friendly: No

DISCLAIMER: Now for the official bit. This blog does not receive any paid promotions from the places mentioned above. We have not been approached to promote or act as spokespersons for any attraction mentioned within this post and this is simply a post intended to act as a day in the life of a couple on a cute date. All photos included are taken by ourselves and as such the rights for these images our ours, no links, brands, or companies mentioned otherwise belong or are associated with Phantom Adventures UK. We are responsible only for this blog. Opinions are our own and not influenced by any third party source.. 

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