St Fillan's Church, Aberdour
We actually went to St Fillan's Church the day after we arrived as we were starving and wanted to rest after our long day. But when we walked past the castle and into the grounds of the mini cathedral it was surreal.
St Fillan's Church sits above Aberdour harbour and stands next door to the castle. Of Norman architecture, the church is lovingly referred to as a miniature cathedral. It was built by Sir Alan de Mortimer after he acquired the Barony of the area following his marriage to Anicea de Vipont. It is likely that the de Mortimer's also built the hall house in the 1200s too, but there is no record as to what happened to the family. The original church that stood in 1123 had deep splayed windows and a nave and chancel. The windows remain to this day despite the church being expanded in the 15th century.
In 1474 the vicar of the church, John Scot, asked the Earl of Morton for an acre of land to the north of the church in order to build a hospice. He had been inspired following a large number of pilgrims visiting a well to the south east of the church as rumour had spread of its eye healing properties. Unfortunately, the well was drained and covered in 2002.
Just under 10 years later the hospice was taken away from the church and granted to the Sisters of the 3rd Order of St Francis. The hospice didnt survive the Reformation in 1560 and no traces of it remain. However, a slab below the western gothic window has an inscription as a reminder of the pilgrims visits to Aberdour, it originally stood on the pilgrims path to the well.
A side aisle was added with further enlargement taking place in the 17th century but this was the last positive change until the early 1900s. It is recorded that in the late 18th century, the Countess of Morton became annoyed at the churches popularity. The residents of Aberdour flocked to worship at St Fillan's and she was unhappy with it being in such close proximity to the castle. Due to this, in 1790 the church was abandoned and a new parish church was set up on the high street. In 2002 this changed into the church's village hall.
Thanks to the Countess of Morton, St Fillan's was deroofed and fell into a ruinous state. It remained abandoned right up until 1914 when Reverend Robert Johnstone suggested the church should be restored. Work began in 1925 after a local family donated a large sum and the church reopened in 1926.
St Fillan's Church turned 900 in 2023 and was recognised as probably the oldest church in Scotland.
The church was silent aside from the birdsong which filled the churchyard. Tucked away from the main road the building sits proud with its villagers and we were shocked at just how grand the Scottish grave stones are compared to ones further down in the UK. In comparison, their headstones are thicker, larger, and more ornate. They honour their dead properly and we respect that. Haunted? Absolutely, but we'd like to think its by nice neighbourly spirits having a chat and inspecting the flowers. Maybe popping into the castle garden on the other side of the gate. There is a presence here but its comforting and we'll leave it at that.
We'd love to go back when its open and see inside as we reckon that it is just as stunning on the inside as it is the outside. This is a must for those who love small village churches like we do.
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